Tortellini: the history of the famous Emilian dumplings
Tortellini are a cherished type of stuffed egg pasta originating from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, particularly in the cities of Bologna and Modena. These peculiar pasta shapes are steeped in a mix of captivating legends and rich historical accounts.
The legend behind Tortellini
One of the most famous stories comes from the 17th century poem “Secchia Rapita” which narrates the tale of a stunning Marchesina who arrives at an inn in Castelfranco Emilia. The innkeeper, mesmerized by her beauty, peeks through the keyhole and catches a glimpse of her navel, inspiring him to create the iconic tortellino. In another variation, the goddess Venus seeks refuge in the same inn during the war between Modena and Bologna, further igniting the innkeeper’s imagination.
The history of Tortellini
Beyond these enchanting legends, the historical roots of tortellini are well-documented. As early as the 12th century, historian Alessandro Cervellati recorded the presence of “Tortellum ad Natale” at Bolognese tables. A papal bull from Pope Alexander III in 1169 refers to “duas partes turtellorum”, while a Modenese recipe for “torteleti de enula” surfaced by the early 1300s. Notably, tortellini are also mentioned in Boccaccio’s “Decameron” during the 1400s. Though the exact origin remains uncertain, it is evident that tortellini originated in Emilia during the Middle Ages, sparking a friendly rivalry between Modena and Bologna.
Tortellini vs. Cappelletti
It’s essential to distinguish tortellini from cappelletti, which are popular in Romagna and have different sizes and fillings. Initially reserved for special occasions, tortellini have evolved greatly over the years. A key moment for their international acclaim occurred in 1904, when the Bartani brothers showcased tortellini at a fair in Los Angeles.
Preparation methods: Bolognese vs. Modenese
Their preparation methods show notabledifferences, from one city to the other. In Bologna, tortellini are known as turtlén, while in Modena they are called turtléin. The Bolognese filling is typically a mix of marinated pork loin, prosciutto, Bologna mortadella, Parmesan, eggs, and a hint of nutmeg, all finely minced. The Modenese version features sautéed cubed pork loin with Modena prosciutto, mortadella, aged Parmesan, and eggs.
The broth accompanying tortellini varies between the regions: Modena favors chicken broth, whereas Bologna traditionally uses broth made from cappone (capon) and beef broth, often enriched with bones. The folding technique also differs: in Modena, the tortellino is wrapped around the index finger, while in Bologna, it is shaped around the pinky finger.
A never-ending tradition
Today, tortellini in broth are a quintessential holiday dish, especially on Sundays and during the Christmas celebrations, yet they are also enjoyed in everyday meals. Many families embrace their own cherished recipes, passed down through generations, highlighting the cultural significance and love for tortellini in this regional cuisine. Whether they are savored in a rich broth or paired with a flavorful sauce, tortellini remain a favorite recipe, uniting families around the dining table and celebrating Italian and Emilian tradition that will never cease to be.
Photo credits:
