The history of Parmigiano Reggiano: the Italian King of Cheeses

What is Parmigiano Reggiano?

Parmigiano Reggiano, affectionately known as the "King of Cheeses," is a celebrated hard cheese with distinct granular textures and a rich, complex flavor profile. It is produced exclusively in a designated area comprising the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and parts of Bologna and Mantova in Italy. The cows that provide the milk for this exceptional cheese are raised on local forages, ensuring a unique flavor that reflects the region's terroir. Stringent regulations govern the cheese's production, prohibiting the use of silage, fermented foods, and animal-derived feeds in the cows' diet, which ensures the highest quality milk.

The production process of Parmigiano Reggiano begins with the morning milk combined with the previous evening's milk, poured into large bell-shaped copper cauldrons. Approximately 550 liters of milk are required to create a single wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. The milk is then allowed to coagulate naturally through the addition of animal rennet and natural whey collected from earlier cheese-making.

Once the milk has set, the curd is fragmented into tiny grains using a traditional tool known as a "spino." This curd is then heated to about 55 degrees Celsius, allowing the granules to sink together and form a solid mass. After about 50 minutes, the cheese maker extracts the mass, which is then divided into two identical wheels. Each wheel is wrapped in linen cloth and placed into molds, receiving a unique identification plate that carries an alphanumeric code.

After the wheels are salted through osmosis, they enter a minimum aging process of 12 months. During this time, experts evaluate the cheese to ensure it meets the stringent criteria required for the Parmigiano Reggiano designation. Only the wheels that pass the quality assessment can bear this prestigious name, while those that do not are stripped of their identification.

A cheese born in the Middle Ages

The intriguing history of Parmigiano Reggiano dates back to the Middle Ages when Cistercian and Benedictine monks sought to produce a long-lasting cheese suitable for preservation. By utilizing salt from the nearby salt flats of Salsomaggiore and the milk from their cattle, these monks succeeded in creating a cheese that could withstand the test of time.

The earliest documented evidence of Parmigiano Reggiano's commercial trade appears in 1254 in Genoa, where it was referred to as "caseus parmensis" or "cheese from Parma." By the 14th century, the cheese trade had significantly expanded to regions such as Romagna, Piedmont, and Tuscany, reaching coastal Mediterranean markets. The 1400s marked a period of economic growth and increased production in Emilia, as local feudal lords and abbeys competed to increase cheese output. During this time, wheel sizes grew, and some weighed as much as 18 kilograms.

The 16th century saw the emergence of dedicated cheese-making centers known as turnario dairies, where dairy farmers would collaboratively process milk from their own herds as well as from neighboring farms. This collaborative effort not only improved productivity but also became a cornerstone of the local economy.

Recognition and Protection

By the 17th century, the increasing demand for Parmigiano Reggiano raised concerns about the legitimacy of the product, leading Duke Ranuccio I Farnese of Parma to officially recognize the cheese’s name in 1612. This act established the boundaries from which authentic Parmigiano Reggiano could be sourced and marked the inception of the Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) concept.

Although continuous warfare in the duke of Parma and Modena during the 1700s posed challenges to cheese production, the traditional methods of making Parmigiano Reggiano remained largely unchanged. The early 1900s introduced innovations such as the use of natural whey starters and steam heating, modernizing the production process.

On July 27, 1934, representatives from dairies in the producing regions united to establish a brand of origin for their renowned cheese. The post-war era saw a resurgence in the popularity of Parmigiano Reggiano, bolstered by the 1951 Stresa Conference and subsequent Italian laws promoting origin labels, culminating in the formation of the current Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano.

By 1996, Parmigiano Reggiano achieved recognition as a DOP at the European level, solidifying its status and ensuring protection against imitation and fraud. This designation is crucial for the safeguarding of Parmigiano Reggiano's heritage, as it is one of the most counterfeited cheeses in the world.

Conclusion

Parmigiano Reggiano is more than just a cheese; it is a culinary legacy that represents centuries of tradition, craftsmanship, and dedication to quality. From its medieval beginnings to its contemporary recognition as a DOP, this exquisite cheese reflects the identity and culture of its region. Whether grated onto pasta, paired with a fine wine, or enjoyed on its own, Parmigiano Reggiano continues to captivate food lovers globally, standing as a testament to the Italian rich gastronomic heritage.